Paitin is the name of the property owned by the Elia family, which has an important history in Piemonte stretching back to 1630. Initially associated with Turin and then Costigliole d’Asti, they carried out administrative duties on behalf of Carlo Emanuele I, Duke of Savoy. They bought the farmhouse at the current site in the commune of Neive (Barbaresco) at the end of the eighteenth century in the Napoleonic period. As early as 1893, they labelled their wine Barbaresco del Bricco di Neive, bricco being the local name for the best, warmest vineyard site at the top of a hill. Today, the winery is managed by the eighth generation, Giovanni, Silvano and Luca. The winery’s total number of hectares under vine is 20, with a further two still to come into production, of which eight are Nebbiolo registered for Barbaresco. 

Paitin now owns several vineyards within the Barbaresco denomination. With the introduction of the MGA (subzone) system in 2007, the home vineyard took the name of Serraboella. Two wines are made from this area: one labelled Serraboella and the other Sorì Paitin, a bottling of fruit from the oldest part of the vineyard. The winery also makes MGA wines from Basarin and Albesani (both also in Neive) and Faset (in the commune of Barbaresco). 

In its Barbaresco vineyards, Paitin has been organic in practice for more than 20 years, with certification from 2015, and the focus is very much on the health of the soils. In the winery, and particularly since 2016 when Luca became involved, the aim is for elegance rather than mere power in the final wine. This was a big change of direction from the late 1990s when rapid extraction with a rotofermenter followed by ageing in French oak was the fashion, though here French oak was only used for three years. Now, after destemming, the wines are fermented with ambient yeast in stainless steel tanks with the temperature restricted to 26ºC. The total time on the skins is around 40 days with regular pump-overs and, post-fermentation, with the cap submerged. The wine is then aged in 25 and 50-hectolitre casks of Austrian or Slavonian oak for just under two years. 

The Serraboella vineyard is at the point where the underlying geology changes from the Lequio Formation to Sant’Agata Marls, the latter dominating in the part devoted to Nebbiolo. The vineyard is steep, with elevations ranging from 280 to 320 metres, and the aspect is from west to south, resulting in a warm site. The vines were planted between 1980 and 1995 and are now fully mature. The Sorì Paitin bottling comes from the older parts of the vineyard, which were planted between 1953 and 1982.

The production from the prestigious Faset MGA is small, from just 0.5 ha. The soils are based on Sant’Agata Marls at an elevation of 240-260 metres, and the plots face south and southwest. The first Paitin vintage was in 2019. The land belongs to two friends of Luca, but Paitin works the vineyard. Again, the vines are a good age, having been planted in 1975–1990. The wines tend to be more open on release than the other wines of the company. The Basarin vineyard is also a relatively recent acquisition in 2018, again with Sant’Agata Marl-based soils, which are very sandy in the highest part. The elevation is 260–320 metres, with south and southeat aspects, and the vines were planted in 1985–1995. Here, the expression is relatively powerful and dark-fruited, with more time needed in the bottle. 

Given its history, it is unsurprising that the Elia family is motivated by continuing the work of preceding generations: grape growing, which has happened for centuries, and winemaking, which is also of longstanding. There is a real respect for the labour of earlier generations but also a keenness to maximise elegance in the wines, the hallmark of many of the best Barbaresco.

Wines

Paitin Barbaresco Basarin

Tech sheets: 2018 | 2019

Paitin Barbaresco Faset

Tech sheet: 2019

Paitin Barbaresco Riserva Sorì Paitin Vecchie Vigne

Tech sheets: 2014 | 2015 | 2016

Paitin Barbaresco Serraboella

Tech sheets: 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019

Paitin Barbaresco Sori Paitin

Tech sheets: 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019

The region

Barbaresco
The Barbaresco denomination, like Barolo, is the source of very high-quality Nebbiolo wines. It is to be found 15 minutes by car northeast of the city of Alba. To qualify as Barbaresco, 100 per cent Nebbiolo grapes must be grown within the delimited area that includes the entire communes of Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso, plus the hamlet of San Rocco Seno d’Elvio, which for administrative purposes is within the commune of Alba.
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