Ghemme DOCG is a medium-sized denomination on the eastern side of the Sesia river. The delimited area includes the commune of Ghemme and a part of Romagnano Sesia, which is directly across the river from Gattinara. Today, just over 50 hectares are in production. The clay, decomposed granite, and quartz soils here were left by the retreat of the glaciers from Monte Rosa. Ghemme received its DOC status in 1969 and became a DOCG in 1997.
Roman drinking cup found near Ghemme
Of all the Alto Piemonte denominations, Ghemme has perhaps the most illustrious and certainly the most documented history. Neolithic remains from the fifth millennium BCE have been found close by. In Roman times, the tombstone of Vibia Earina, a slave freed by Quinto Vibio Crispo, a senator under the emperor Nero, testifies to the cultivation of vines in the area in the first century CE. Its Roman name, Pagus Agaminus, is mentioned by Roman writers. Perhaps most spectacularly, an elaborate caged glass cup was found near Ghemme dated to the fourth century CE, with the saying bibes vivas multis annis (drink and may you live a long time).
The oldest winery in continuous production can be dated back to 1852. A legal document of that year states that Michelangelo Ioppa (today Vini Ioppa) bought the best vineyard land in the local hills in Ghemme and declared his firm commitment to grape growing and winemaking. Both Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo of the Arlunno family and Rovellotti, still based within the medieval castle area of Ghemme, claim centuries of vine growing and wine production before founding modern companies in 1969 and 1972 respectively.
Ghemme DOCG must be 85–100 per cent Nebbiolo, and today, they are typically monovarietal or close to it. Uva Rara and/or Vespolina may make up the blend. The maximum yield for standard and riserva wines is 56 hectolitres per hectare. Where they are used, the other permitted grapes are Vespolina (with a maximum of 4 per cent) and Uva Rara. The standard wine must be aged for a minimum of 34 months before release, of which a minimum of 18 months must be in wood. This is increased to 46 months and 24 months for riserva wines.
