This is a small but special DOC, the only one devoted solely to Nebbiolo wines in Canavese, one hour by car north of Turin. Here, Nebbiolo is known as Picotener, its name in the neighbouring region of Valle d’Aosta.
The village of Carema serves as the gateway between Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta. Its strategic position delivers spectacular views to both the north and the south, and of the steep, rocky slope on which the terraced vineyards are to be found. Indeed, ‘vineyards’ are a bit of a misnomer here as most of Carema is planted on a series of small terraces, many only accessible on foot. During the various wars between France and Austria, the flat, fertile land by the river was used to feed the soldiers, forcing the villagers to use the slopes of the hillside. The slopes are extremely rocky, and it is said that the village women carried sandy river soils up to terraces on the hillside to make farming possible. In the past, much of the forested area that now surrounds the terraces was under vine, but this was later abandoned. Some of the abandoned vineyards are now being rescued by a small group of young producers, prepared to put in the work by hand.
Terraces with pergolas in Carema
Carema DOC must be made from 85–100 per cent Nebbiolo, with local varieties typically being used to make up the blend if the wine is not simply Nebbiolo. By law, the wine must be aged for two years before release (three years for the riserva category), one of which must be in oak or chestnut wood.
The vineyard plots are typically between 300 and 500 metres in elevation. The slope faces west with a range of aspects from southwest (the warmest) to northwest. Due to the elevation and the cool air descending from the Alps, the vineyards benefit from hot days and cool nights during the summer. In cooler periods, the vines benefit from the heat radiating from the drystone walls and rock face.
The vines are typically pergola trained, either on wooden pergolas (traditionally chestnut from the local woods) or stone, called pilun. The soils in Carema are very sandy, being a combination of river soils and granite/mica. Compared with La Morra (Barolo), where the amount of sand in the soil is typically 10 per cent, Carema soils are 70–75 per cent sand. As a result, the soils are extremely fast-draining and, in dry years, prone to drought. They also have low fertility, contributing to low yields and the need to add organic matter such as compost or manure. However, the sandy, poor soils do contribute to wines of high aromatic intensity and lower alcohol levels. The wines can be enjoyed in their youth but also have the flavour intensity and structure to age well in the bottle.
